Newfoundland - Fogo Islands

Our final stop in Newfoundland before driving back to St. John’s was to the Fogo Islands. About four or five years ago, Alex came across an article in Bloomberg Magazine talking about the recent opening of the Fogo Island Inn. Architecturally, the inn is such an amazing structure which perches on stilts and hugs the North Atlantic Coastline. What makes this hotel extra special is that it is part of a charity which gives back to the island and many of the employees are locals as well. We had pinned this article in our “Places to Visit” file and were very excited about checking it out. After an hour ferry ride from the mainland, we arrived in the Fogo Islands.

After dropping off our bags, we decided to take a walk to check out the property and surrounding area. It started off as a beautiful afternoon, but after about an hour we noticed storm clouds moving in and decided to turn around and head back to the hotel. We were only a half-mile from the hotel when the rain caught up with us and it just poured! Luckily, we had our rain jackets, but our jeans and hiking shoes were a sopping mess!!

Not liking the sight of those storm clouds!

For our first full day in the Fogo Islands, we did a few of the hiking trails around the island. We started in the town of Fogo and hiked up to the peak of Brimstone Head, a 420-million-year-old volcano. If you are a member of the flat earth society (those who believe the earth is flat, not round), Brimstone Head is known as one of the four corners of the flat earth. At the start of the hike, there is a sign stating: "WARNING. You are nearing the edge of the flat earth. One false step could be your last. Number of people lost to date: 0." Newfoundlanders clearly have a cheeky sense of humor!

Also in the town of Fogo, is the Fogo Head Trail. This 2-mile trail provides a birds eye view of the surrounding coastline. We lucked out with beautiful blue skies, but the wind was so strong! I was afraid of getting knocked over a few times!

Our last stop was to the town of Tilting. Tilting was settled by the Irish in the 18th century and is now a National Historic Site of Canada. It is home to some of the most quaint fishing stages and salt box homes on the island.

During our time in the Fogo Islands, we also visited the Fogo Island Art Studios. These studios are part of the same charity as the Fogo Island Inn and designed by the same architect. Artists, filmmakers, writers, musicians, and designers from around the world are able to use these workspaces. There are four studios in total which are located on different parts of the island - Tower Studio, Long Studio, Bridge Studio, and Squish Studio. They are visually so appealing and it is easy to imagine getting inspiration from the views surrounding the studios.

One really special and unique activity the Fogo Island Inn offers is to match you up with a Community Host. This host is a local from the Fogo Islands and will drive you around the island to share stories, history, and orient you to the area. Alex and I did this on our last morning at the inn and it was so much fun. Typically, Alex and I tend to shy away from these types of tours and prefer to explore on our own, but our host, Mary, was interesting, funny, and provided so much information and background about the Fogo Islands. Even though it sounds cheesy, she really did enhance our experience and appreciation for Newfoundland.

We spent almost three hours driving around with Mary who shared stories about growing up in the Fogo Islands (she even showed us her childhood home in Tilting), doing a few short hikes, getting to know some of the locals (including the proprietor of the oldest building in Tilting and a local fisherman). Mary even showed us where to forage for wild blueberries! It was clear she loved this island and provided so much history that it was difficult not to share her enthusiasm and passion.

Constructed in the early 1830s, The Lane House is the oldest house in Tilting.

Our guide Mary in front of Bridge Studio

Unfortunately due to Hurricane Dorian, we ended up having to leave the Fogo Islands a day early as the storm was forecasted to hit the eastern part of Newfoundland and the ferry to and from the island was predicted to stop running for at least two days. Luckily, we were able to take the 7:00pm ferry, so we ended up having a full last day on the island. Other than the strong winds, the weather was sunny and warm during our time in the Fogo Islands. You would never have known a hurricane was heading this way.

The hotel dogs, Make & Break, who come each evening for pats and love

I’m so glad Alex and I were able to spend time in this beautiful part of the world. We ended up packing a lot during our two weeks and were tired by the end, but really felt we were able to experience some of the best Newfoundland has to offer. I do hope we have the opportunity to visit again!

Other Towns and Recommendations:

Dildo: Dildo Brewing

Brigus: The Country Corner (get the blueberry crisp!)